Things to take back: recipes

The whole point of doing a pilgrimage - or, for that matter, of going on holiday - is to bring back something with you into your daily life. A new outlook on life, distance to everyday turmoil, is probably the main goal. So we have our little escapes. Some of them are culinary. Not every day has enough time to cook something special, but we try to on most weekends. We try to recapture tastes we liked. Some will be forever unattainable, like a tirami su we were served in a small, probably old, roadside trattoria not too far from Bologna. First we had tagliatelle bolognese (no, the original is not with spaghetti), then dessert, zuppa inglese and the said tirami su. I vowed not to eat any other until I couldn't remember this one clearly any more. It was that good.

But further north, still in the mountains, we were served polenta with different types of goulash. I tried to re-create these a few times, and last Sunday, I was successful. Here's the recipe:


Meat Stew "Monte Peller"

(serves 3-4)

Ingredients:
1 Tbs butterfat
1 pound stew beef, not too lean
5 spareribs
1 medium sized onion, finely diced
4 carrots, diced
1/2 orange bell pepper, diced
fresh herbs (I used lovage and thyme)
pepper and allspice, freshly ground
pinch of salt

1/2 cup water, more if needed

for the roux:
3 Tbs Butterfat
3 Tbs flour
1/2 cup rosé wine
water as needed


Preparation:
Heat the butterfat in a large pot. Brown the spareribs, take them out, then brown the beef in two portions to get a crisp crust. Take the meat out, then brown the onions. Put all meat back in, then the carrots and the herbs. Season and toss, then add the water. Cover and let simmer over low heat for an hour, then add the bell pepper and let simmer for another half hour. Make sure there's always some liquid left.

Drain into a coarse sieve, collect the fluid. To make the sauce, you can boil the fluid to make it thicken, but that might give very little in the end and takes a lot of time. Or you can make a roux:
Melt the butterfat in a skillet over medium heat. Add the flour and stir well. It should make a ball that leaves a sticky residue as it is moved about in the skillet. Add the fluid from the stew, a little at a time, stirring constantly to avoid lumps. Add the wine in like manner. Cold liquids must be added more slowly than warm ones to avoid lumps. Add water do make a thickly sauce. Normally, no additional seasoning is needed.

Put the meat and vegetables back into the sauce and serve the stew with polenta.


Monte Peller is a peak in the Brenta Dolomites, where we tasted this type of dish for the first time.

Thanks to Mary and Jason for their help in setting the recipe up.